In the Lapp of Luxury
/Just before COVID grounded all travel, I was given the unbelievable opportunity to spend Christmas in Lapland, the official home of Santa Claus. With a tour company well known for its private (and yes, luxurious) Nordic experiences planning our itinerary, we had an experience I would never forget and one that will now become the benchmark of future Christmas celebrations.
Our Home Away From Home
Honka Saikkara (Photo courtesy of Alpha Puey)
After braving the 19-hour flight from Manila to Helsinki, followed by a two-hour flight to Rovaniemi, then a 60-minute coach to Raanujärvi, we finally reached our home for the holidays.
We were billeted at Honka Saikkara, a private log cabin in the middle of what looked like a white wilderness. It was blankets of snow for miles without a neighbor in sight. It was cold, it was remote, and it was beautiful.
We entered the cabin and were immediately greeted by the resident elf who took the kids and kept them entertained with Santa stories, craft-making and baking. We were also introduced to our private chef who, over the next week, spoiled us with lavish Lappish dinners of reindeer steaks, salmon and cloudberry dessert to name a few. I’m sure I gained a couple of pounds here and there, but you won’t hear me complain.
Snowmobile Safari
Waist-high deep snow (Photo courtesy of Alpha Puey)
Step out of the cabin and you’re knee-high deep in snow (and even waist-high in some areas), so hopping on one of the snowmobiles supplied by the cabin was a great way to get around. Despite being a first-timer, I was surprised by how easy it was – no complicated gears and they even had heated handlebars to keep my hands warm.
We drove in a single file and followed our “nature expert” as he took us through breath-taking views of the woods, hills and frozen lakes. For the non-drivers like my four-year-old daughter and her cousins, they were towed in a sled for a ride that would rival anything Disney had to offer.
Riding a snowmobile (Photo courtesy of Alpha Puey)
After a couple of hours at a leisurely pace, we stopped at a clearing and were given the thumbs up to explore and go full speed to our heart’s content. While I took the opportunity to rest and make snow angels on the ground with my daughter, the teenagers took full advantage of the adrenaline rush and were up to stunts in no time at all.
Husky Adventure
The author with the local dog (Photo courtesy of Alpha Puey)
Snowmobiles aside, the next transportation on offer was as a passenger on a husky-powered sled. We arrived at a farm that was abuzz with the barking and howling of dogs everywhere. While those who agreed to be mushers (i.e., sled drivers) took some quick lessons, the rest of us made ourselves comfortable in sleds that were properly supplied with warm fur blankets. From there, the dogs took over. They answered the call of the wild and pulled us through the most picturesque landscape imaginable. Unlike the snowmobiles, this one took us further into the mountains through snow-lined trees and the orange glow of the sunset reflecting on the white rolling hills.
There’s a reason why most Lapland tourism posters include huskies. This was an experience we wish didn’t end. To be guided through this winter wonderland by these beautiful animals was absolutely magical. My eldest son called it the highlight of the whole trip.
As we arrived back at the farm, the huskies took their well-deserved rest. The mushers feigned tiredness (really, the dogs did all the work) while I was just in need of more warmth. Luckily, the tour company had a teepee waiting for us complete with bonfire and hot soup. It was a good opportunity to relax and take some selfies with our furry friends.
The Aurora Borealis
I’ve seen pictures of the Northern Lights and also seen them depicted a number of times in films. However, none of that prepares you for the wonder of seeing the Aurora Borealis in person. I remember it being our first night at the cabin. We had just finished dinner and were getting ready to turn in when the caretaker invited us out to see the sky. So after a quick transition from pyjamas to snowsuits, we stepped out into the pitch-black night and became witness to the mythical dance of light and color that has enthralled stargazers for centuries.
It’s difficult to put into words the beauty unfolding above. In a way, I was glad that my phone camera didn’t have the filters necessary to capture the colors weaving about in the sky. From there it was an easy decision to put it away and just enjoy the view. I would learn later that night just how lucky we were. Apparently, the Aurora Borealis can be quite elusive and visibility depends on both how clear the sky is, as well as the intensity of solar activity for the night.
Ice Fishing
Okay, so perhaps this activity isn’t for everyone. Or maybe it was just too cold. Then again, my husband and I enjoy trying new experiences. Besides, when in Lapland…
We arrived at a frozen lake where our nature guide taught us how to drill holes in the ice and lower fishing lines down to the water. We then sat on reindeer pelts to keep warm and waited for a bite. And waited. And waited.
Ice fishing (Photo courtesy of Alpha Puey)
Although the hot chocolate was yummy and the stories from our guide were more than entertaining enough to pass the time, my mind never drifted far from that fact that I could feel my eyelashes icing up and the cold slowly making its way up my backside. Sitting in the middle of a frozen lake means there are no trees to block the wind and you feel every degree of the minus 25C hitting your face. So after three hours and no bite, we decided to call it a day.
That night, our guide walked in with a box of freshly caught salmon, which our chef gladly prepared on the firepit. Now I’ve discovered the best (and most delicious) part of ice fishing.
Reindeer Surprise
Surprise is an understatement. The day started out just like any other with our nature guide saying we would try another Lappish tradition. Today, it was a mountain tour while relaxing on a reindeer sleigh.
This was different from our husky adventure. Reindeer sleighs are made for comfort – complete with pillows, blankets, and gingerbread cookies as you travel (slowly) through the snow. Snuggled next to my husband, it felt like something out of a Christmas carol, I could hear the words in my head … Sleigh bells ring, are you listening? In the lane, snow is glistening. A beautiful sight. We're happy tonight. Walking in a winter wonderland.
The reindeer sleigh (Photo courtesy of Alpha Puey)
About an hour in, the reindeer sensed something was nearby. So did we. An opening in the woods revealed a cabin, smoke puffing out of its chimney and an elf standing at the doorway acting like she’d been waiting for our arrival. She ushered us in, offering a break from the cold with a hot drink.
Make no mistake, our Lapland trip had been magical so far. That’s the best way for me to describe it. But this moment, walking into the cabin, was pure magic. The door opened and the unmistakable “Ho Ho Ho” greeting of Santa’s voice filled the room. There he was. The big man with the white flowing beard all dressed in his customary red suit. Is this where he lives? How did I get here? How was this kept a secret?
Santa looked at me. “How are you?” he said with a wink. “I remember you when you were little” … and just like that, I was brought back to my childhood. He then gave each child their ample time, listening to their stories, hopes and dreams (aka their desire for toys and gadgets). After, he joined us for some hot drinks and baked pastries before handing out gifts and asking his reindeer to take us back home. The spirit of Christmas was truly alive and everyone in our group slept with smiles that night.
A big thumbs up to the tour company that organized all this as a private event. Outside this experience, the other option to see Santa would have been at the village where we’d fight for space and time with tourists from around the globe.
Rovaniemi
For those who needed a break from the remoteness of our cabin, the city of Rovaniemi was just under an hour away. We explored as much as we could, including a visit to the Arktikum Science Museum. Designed to resemble a long glass dome, there were heaps of information on Arctic history, culture, and way of life. Other interesting stops included the Angry Bird Playground, Santa’s Village where you can visit Santa’s official post office and see the marker that officially tells you that you have crossed into the Arctic Circle, and the Arctic Snow Hotel. Made entirely of ice (yes, even the beds, chairs and tables), the hotel would be an interesting one-night stay for the adventurous. We even visited the hotel bar – still all made from ice – and ordered a delicious cloudberry liqueur served in ice glasses. When done, simply smash the glasses against the ice wall. Amazing.
It’s been two years since our visit to Lapland, but we still find ourselves talking about it at the dinner table. Something will spark a memory, and we’ll reminisce and wonder when we can make a return trip. Perhaps this is why the Finns are regarded as the happiest people on the planet. When you live in such a magical place, it’s hard to say goodbye.
Today when I listen to Bing Crosby, I’m no longer imagining the snow – I’m dreaming of it! I’m dreaming of a white Christmas, just like the one I used to know. Where the treetops glisten, and children listen, to hear sleigh bells in the snow, oh, the snow.
Alpha Puey
Alpha Puey is an arts and crafts instructor. She currently lives in Melbourne, Australia with her husband and three children.
