Escape from Sudan
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The author takes us on a wild ride through North Sudan, highlighting the trials and tribulations that come with exploring the unknown.
I had been living and working as a drama teacher at Khartoum International Community School in Sudan for almost nine years. Sudan and the company I worked for treated us very well, giving us the opportunity to develop and improve our lives. However, recent events have shaken the country. A power struggle between Sudan's army and a notorious paramilitary force has caused unrest and tension. The fighting is between army units loyal to the de facto leader and the RSF, commanded by Sudan's deputy leader. As someone who has been living in Sudan for almost a decade, I hope deeply for peace and stability in the country. My thoughts and prayers are with everyone affected by the conflict. #Sudan #Peace #Stability.
Day 1 – April 15, 2023
The experience of war can be terrifying, with every moment spent waiting for the next sound of artillery or bomb explosion to shake your house. My wife Annette and I are at home doing our morning routine when the first clashes break out. We hunker down, unsure of how long this will last and how safe we are. It’s important to keep a positive outlook and assess the situation. Maybe this war will end soon, and things will go back to normal. As we hear the sounds of battle getting louder and louder, it’s hard not to lose hope. But amid this chaos, we hold on to the power of resilience and stay strong.
This recent outbreak of violence in Sudan is deeply concerning. As we watch this heartbreaking situation unfold, we should remember that we can all do our part to support efforts for lasting peace and stability in this region. The international community must continue to prioritize this important issue and work together to find sustainable solutions. Let's come together and support the people of Sudan during this difficult time.#sudan #PrayForSudan #Khartoum
Day 2 – April 16
It's scary when danger is outside and you're not sure what to do. Our hearts go out to everyone in this situation right now.
As the war continues, Annette and I have been taking stock of our supplies. We have enough food to last us about two weeks, but it's our water supply that worries me the most. Still, we're finding ways to cope. We've been rationing our food and only eating after Iftar during this last week of Ramadan. It's been challenging, but we've managed to put our hunger on hold until the following day. We believe the war will end soon, so we'll hold on to our place until it's safe to venture out. Stay safe, everyone.
Day 3 – April 17
Another day of clashes between SAF and RSF forces, and we wake up to the sound of artillery and gunfire yet again. But amidst all this chaos, I want to take a moment to express my heartfelt gratitude to all those who reached out to us, messaged us, and responded with words of encouragement and support. Your kind words have meant the world to us and have given us the strength to keep pushing through these challenging times. We will continue to keep you updated on the situation here and appreciate all the positive energy you are sending our way.
The Sudan Army battles the RSF paramilitary group (Source: The Conversation/Getty Images)
Day 4 – April 18
The situation in #Sudan continues to escalate and it's taking a toll on everyone. With the ceasefire in effect, we're hopeful that the violence will subside and peace can be restored. But as we all wait anxiously, our hearts go out to those who are struggling to survive. People are desperately searching for necessities like water, medicine, and food, and we must come together to support them. It's heartbreaking to hear that looting and stealing are also taking place, which will only worsen the crisis for innocent civilians. We must remain vigilant and keep pushing for a peaceful resolution. #PrayForSudan.
Day 5 – April 19
My alarm clock isn't what it used to be. Instead of gentle chirps, I wake up to the sounds of bombardment. Sleep is scarce, as the days and nights blend together in periods of gunfire and quiet. In these trying times, we can still find moments of peace and connection. We continue to support each other and hold on to hope for better days ahead.
Shelling continues…
Day 6 – April 20
The news of another ceasefire in Khartoum has just been announced. While [the fighting] may not be as intense as yesterday, many people I know continue to feel uneasy and are choosing to move out to safer areas. The impact of these conflicts on people's lives and safety is real and should not be ignored. We need to continue to support efforts towards peace and stability in Sudan.
Day 7 – April 21
The sound of explosions wake me up early this morning. It's another reminder of the ongoing conflict and turmoil in this country. Despite this, there is some hope for peace with a three-day ceasefire now in place. Today, I was interviewed by a Philippine channel about the situation of Filipinos in Sudan. It's important that we bring attention to the challenges faced by our community here.
Day 8 – April 22
Finally, tonight we are able to experience some peace and quiet in our place. It gives us hope that tomorrow will bring even more calm and clarity, In'Sha Allah. Meanwhile, many of our Sudanese friends are traveling by convoy towards the borders of Egypt, Port Sudan and Ethiopia. We hope they stay safe and reach their destinations without any trouble.
Day 9 – April 23
Just wrapped up an interview with BBC Radio [https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/w172z09c7hj9xcs] and I have to admit, I was nervous. But I hope I was able to share an accurate portrayal of what's happening on the ground. I may have even spoken without filter, but it's all for the sake of transparency and honesty. The more we can share about what's happening, the more we can work towards solutions.
Tonight, our group of Filipino teachers secretly left Khartoum. We decided as a group to leave and to leave all together.
“My alarm clock isn’t what it used to be. Instead of gentle chirps, I wake up to the sounds of bombardment.”
Day 10 – April 24
After more than 22-plus hours on the road, we finally arrive at our destination up north, bordering Sudan-Egypt. The journey was full of ups and downs, with RSF checkpoints, police escorts, and feelings of relief, sadness, and fear. As someone who has been living in Khartoum, I can't help but wonder what's going to happen to us and to Sudan as a whole. But for now, I am just tired and exhausted. Time to catch some much-needed rest.
We are now in Wadi Halfa. We are billeted in a halfway house filled with tension and stress. Despite the uncomfortable atmosphere, we were welcomed and given accommodation and food. War is truly inconvenient, and we shouldn't expect creature comforts. We must make do with what we have.
The KICS (Khartoum International Community School) teachers had a meeting and were given an update for tomorrow's plans. Each nationality has to formulate their own plans and bundle up. We sleep late, thinking about what tomorrow will bring, hoping and praying things will go as planned. War may be difficult, but our determination and perseverance will get us through it.
Day 11 – April 25
Our journey has been eventful, to say the least. We had to wake up early to prepare for the border crossing. The sandy roads were picturesque and the scenery was breathtaking. But things became chaotic as we entered the city center (the Sudanese border control--it had been hot and was noisy and messy. Eventually, we made our way to the Egyptian section, then our troubles started at the visa checkpoint. Despite having the documents provided by our embassy, we were denied visas, and thus began an arduous eight-hour ordeal. We will have to spend the night sleeping on the sidewalks. Nevertheless, we remain optimistic that we'll overcome this setback and continue with our trek. It’s a good thing that we are in constant communication with our Philippine Embassy in Cairo and the DFA (Department of Foreign Affairs of the Philippines) who have been tirelessly working to help us.
Escaping the Sudanese border proved to be no easy feat. Long lines, sweltering heat, and masses of people all clamoring to leave — sounds like a nightmare, doesn't it? Unfortunately, it was the reality at this Sudanese border crossing. Our team was stuck there for hours just to get exit permits.
Day 12 – April 26
The Philippine Embassy in Cairo has been working to ensure that our passports get cleared at the Egyptian border crossing. It's important to have patience and an open mind in situations like these. Finally, at around 8 p.m., we were asked to gather in groups, and some were called in for passport checks. It seems like things are moving, and we are the last group to be called at around 12 midnight.
Day 13 – April 27
Today has been an emotional rollercoaster. We thought we were headed to Aswan, but it was a false alarm. The group decided that those with visas should move ahead, but Annette and I, along with my co-teacher Chris (Pinoy) decided to wait and have some breakfast at the cafeteria. We pass the time by singing some songs, trying to distract ourselves from the uncertainty of the situation. Unfortunately, we don’t hear anything from the authorities, and now we're feeling sad about the outcome. Hoping for better news tomorrow.
Day 14 – April 28
We are still at the border crossing, and our struggles continue. While fighting persists in Khartoum, we are sleeping on the sidewalk for the fourth day in a row. This place has become like a new home for me, although I do wish I could order some food from outside. But as always, I'm taking it one day at a time. My daily routine now includes hanging out in the cafeteria and singing with the other Pinoys as we wait for updates on our visas. The journey may be tough, but I'm determined to see it through.
Side note:
The immigration officers at the Egyptian border deserve some applause! Their tireless work for the past few days has been incredible, as thousands of people from the Sudanese border have crossed to get their visas. Despite hundreds of buses and private cars passing through this entry point, they have worked nonstop to ensure the safety and efficiency of the immigration process. It's heartwarming to see such dedication to helping incoming refugees. Thank you to these hardworking individuals for all that they do. #Egypt
Day 15 – April 29
Amidst all the chaos and uncertainty, there are those who are eager to return to Sudan and be with their loved ones. While thousands continue to flee, it's heartwarming to know that some are determined to brave the challenges and be there for their families during this difficult time. To those who are going back, we applaud your courage and selflessness. Your loved ones are lucky to have you.
Tonight, we’ll sleep again on the sidewalks.
Sidewalk story 1:
Heartbreaking news! A friend of mine recently traveled with his family for four days from Khartoum to Argeen, only to find out that his family's visas were not approved. It's disheartening to see families being separated like this. We need to work together to create a more inclusive and compassionate world. Let's spread awareness about the challenges that families face when trying to travel and ensure that everyone has access to safe and seamless travel experiences.
Day 16 – April 30
Good morning, everyone! I hope you're all staying warm on this chilly day. Last night was rough for me, as I didn't have any blanket to snuggle up with. But there was a bit of comic relief amid my shivering -- an unknown lady randomly laid down beside me! I couldn't help but chuckle at the absurdity of the situation. Here's hoping for warmer nights and no more surprise bedfellows. Stay cozy out there, folks!
It's our 6th day at the Egyptian border.
Sidewalk story 2:
At Argeen crossing, I hear another heartbreaking story. Women, already displaced and going through their menstrual cycles, have no access to basic necessities such as water or bathrooms. The look of despair in their eyes speak volumes about their situation. It makes me realize the existential crisis of giving life to men who have no respect for it. It's high time we addressed the fundamental rights of these women and provide them with the basic resources they need. Let's do better.
2:16 p.m. Something is happening.
To be continued…
Day 17 – May 1
I never knew how much patience and perseverance I had until I was stuck at the Egyptian border control for six long days. It was a test of my limits, but it also taught me humility and the importance of staying grounded. During this tough period, I prayed to God for guidance and to not lose hope. I learned to find comfort in the small things and to take things one day at a time. Life may throw us unexpected challenges, but it's how we handle them that truly matters.
6:30 p.m. yesterday
Yesterday was an incredibly challenging day. After being held for six days at the Goustal Egyptian border, my wife, our fellow compatriots and I finally made it safely to Abu Simbel. The situation at the crossing was chaotic and there were thousands of people trying to make it through under very difficult circumstances. I am grateful to have made it through safely, but my thoughts are with those who are still struggling to get to their destinations.
Day 18 – May 2
My colleagues are still stuck at the Egyptian border. Meanwhile, I find myself in Abu Simbel, feeling both relieved and guilty at the same time. I spoke with a friend who remained in Khartoum and was disheartened to hear that the city is running out of gas, and moving to safer places has become too expensive. As the adrenaline and stress begin to fade, I am moving into grief for the people and places affected by the turmoil in this region.
“Despite having the documents provided by our embassy, we were denied visas, and thus began an arduous eight-hour ordeal. We will have to spend the night sleeping on the sidewalks.”
Sidewalk story 3:
Sometimes the contrast between our surroundings can be stark. One moment we're surrounded by honking cars and the chatter of different languages, and the next, we're waking up to the peaceful sounds of nature. As I'm writing this, I'm sitting on the shores of Lake Nasser, listening to the waves gently lapping against the shore and the chirping of birds. It's truly surreal. The smell of clean nature is so refreshing. I'm grateful for this moment of peace and quiet, and it reminds me of the importance of taking the time to appreciate the small things in life.
9:01 p.m. leaving for Cairo.
Day 19 – May 3
This 19th day of our ordeal is made bearable by the amazing Pinoys who keep me company. They are hands down the best companions to have in tough times. We find joy in the simple things, laughing, gossiping, and bantering with each other. And of course, what keeps us entertained for hours on end is singing! If only we had our trusty karaoke box, we could have turned the Goustal border crossing into a bar and made some money off our impromptu performances. Thank you, Pinoys, for being the shining light in this dark situation.
A long journey to freedom ends at last. The relief on my face says it all - I've finally made it out of the Goustal border crossing. It's been a tough road, but I'm excited for what lies ahead now that I'm free.
Sidewalk story 4:
My heart is heavy thinking about the people left behind. Recently, I heard of Sudanese visa applicants who were granted visas, only to have their driver denied one. And there are so many other stories, like the Filipina who was separated from her Sudanese in-laws due to visa issues, and the stranded wedding guest at the Egyptian border. These are just a few of the many sad tales out there. It's important to remember that behind every visa issue, there are people whose lives are impacted. We need to do better as a global community to ensure that everyone is treated fairly and with compassion.
Day 20 – May 4
Late post alert! I recently had the honor of being interviewed by Channel News Asia about my experiences in Khartoum and at the Egyptian border. Watching the video made me feel like I was dodging bullets while I spoke, bringing back memories of Khartoum under siege. Nevertheless, it was important for me to share my story and shed light on the challenges faced by us. We must continue to work towards finding solutions and supporting those in need.
The trip to Cairo:
Just completed an 18-hour journey from Abu Simbel to Cairo, and boy, was it an experience! We had two drivers for the trip, and while we had to go through many checkpoints along the way, the ride wasn't as tense as getting out of Khartoum. We felt safe and secure throughout the journey, although the border control was strict about checking our drivers' whereabouts. We are grateful to have arrived in Cairo safely, and we are looking forward to the rest of our trip.
The author and his wife is in Abu Simbel.
Day 21 – May 5
At the Goustal Egyptian Border Control:
When we first arrived at the border crossing, the head of security, Mohamed, ordered us to leave. But on the third day, something shifted. We began chatting in the cafeteria and discovered that beneath his stern exterior, Mohamed was actually a friendly guy with a sense of humor. It's amazing how, with just a little bit of effort, you can build bridges with people from all walks of life. It reminds me that, no matter how different we may seem on the surface, we all have our own unique stories to share. As our time at the crossing comes to an end, I'll miss Mohamed and our lunchtime chats. Who knows, maybe one day we'll meet again and catch up on all the noisy Pinoys he's been missing.
We are devastated to hear the news about the Afra Mall. That place held such special memories for me and many others in Sudan. As an expat working there, it was where we could find everything we needed. It's sad to see such a shining gem come to such unfortunate circumstances. My thoughts go out to all those impacted by this loss. Let's hope for the restoration of the peace and glory of Sudan.
Day 22 – May 6
While today should have been the second day of a ceasefire in Sudan, reports of continued fighting in Khartoum show the difficult reality on the ground. The ongoing conflict has resulted in airstrikes, shelling, and the destruction of infrastructure. Sadly, civilians and children were injured in the crossfire. To add to the already dire situation, some citizens have been forced out of their homes or have had them taken over by the RSF. Our hearts go out to all those affected by the conflict, and we hope for peace and stability to return to Sudan soon.
At the Goustal Egyptian Border Crossing:
Shoutout to Ismael, the owner of the cafeteria at Goustal border crossing! This guy was such an important part of our daily routine. We would sit in his cafeteria all day, using the space as our personal hangout spot. Ismael was always welcoming and accommodating, never complaining about us taking up space even when we weren't buying anything. And when it came to sleeping at night, he came through for us again, lending us his mats so we didn't have to sleep on carton boxes. Looking back, I wish I had taken a photo with him before we left. Ismael, if you're reading this, we haven't forgotten about you and we hope to see you again soon!
Day 23 – May 7
This past week has been filled with chaos and emotional stress, and I am still reeling from the experience. This morning, I woke up to the sound of what I thought were gunshots and my first instinct was to close the curtains and make sure the room was dark. I am still struggling with flashbacks of my experiences in Khartoum, and it's been difficult to move on. But I am taking steps to work through my trauma and regain my sense of calm. I am grateful for the support of my colleagues and friends, who have been there for me every step of the way.
Sidewalk story 5:
The surreal scene at Khartoum is heartbreaking. With empty streets and the sounds of shelling and gunfights, it's easy to feel alone. But amidst it all, one homeless man sang out into the silence. As if sent by fate, a stray dog came and sat by his side, looking for comfort. It's moments like these that remind us of the power of compassion and connection.
Last Day in Cairo
Today was bittersweet as we said farewell to Maadi Hotel. Our group started with 14 people, but one of our colleagues had to leave early for Manila. While waiting at the lobby, officials from the DMW (Department of Migrant Workers) came to settle some matters, and the DFA team joined us to take us to the airport. As I boarded the bus, I couldn't help but remember the five nights we were stranded at the border, sleeping on sidewalks and waking up to the smell of fumes from passing buses. But as I reflect on that experience, I know that it was just a trial that we had to overcome.
While crossing the Nile river, my wife and I reflected on our recent experiences in Sudan and felt grateful for our safety. It's important to remain patient and perseverant during challenging times.
Day 24 – May 8
Just arrived in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia after a long journey from Cairo. Grateful to have been greeted by officials from DFA, DMW and OWWA who made sure we felt welcome and taken care of. As we exchanged stories with our fellow Filipinos on the flight, it felt surreal seeing so many of us in one place. Annette and I are feeling somber and uncertain about what the future holds, but we're grateful for the support and comfort we provide each other. Here's to taking it one step at a time and staying positive.
Next stop …Manila, Philippines
Sidewalk story 6:
As much as we wish we could stay, we have no choice but to leave Khartoum for now. It's tough to imagine what we'll return to when the time comes. Our homes are more than just walls and roofs, they're extensions of who we are. But we must remain optimistic and hopeful for the future. Let's focus on making the most out of our time away and do our part in keeping each other safe. We'll be back soon enough, and who knows, maybe our Khartoum will be even more special when we return.
Day 25 – May 9
Just landed safely in Manila and the feeling of relief is indescribable. As I hugged and kissed my wife, I knew everything is going to be fine. We've overcome so many obstacles in life, and this will be just another walk in the park. The warm reception by officials of DMW, OWWA (Overseas Workers Welfare Administration) and Sec. Ople as we passed through the corridors was heartwarming. We filled out the paperwork, took pictures and exchanged pleasantries before proceeding to immigration. After being cleared, we picked up our bags and headed to our transportation. It's starting to sink in that I won't be seeing Khartoum again...only time will tell. #PrayForSudan #Khartoum #sudan #DFA #ofwlife
Sidewalk Story 7:
Leaving Sudan after almost a decade was tough. Our son graduated from Khartoum International Community School where I taught drama, and my wife Annette enjoyed the slow-paced life of a housewife. We made so many memories and leaving them behind was difficult. When it was finally time to go, we had to pack everything into just two backpacks - ten years of our lives reduced to these two bags. It's amazing how little we really need to survive.
Relief at last! After 5 nights and 6 days, our journey has finally reached its destination in Abu Simbel.Being stranded at the Goustal border crossing can be quite challenging, but after several days of uncertainty and chaos, it's a breath of fresh air to finally find some peace and quiet in the ancient temple town.(Me and my wife, Annette)
Postscript: In retrospect, as overseas Filipino workers (OFWs), we know that the jobs we take in high-risk areas like Sudan come with inherent challenges. In times of crisis, our true nature and character are tested. Sadly, not all OFWs are able to handle the pressure. It's disheartening to see some OFWs behave badly, bringing out the worst in them, even towards government officials who are trying to help them. While we understand that it's war, and people want to save their lives, we should still remember that we are in a foreign country. We need to follow diplomatic processes and treat others with respect. Don't worry, there are government agencies mandated to help you during the repatriation process. However, it's important to remember that this is not fast-food ordering. It takes time and patience for the process to work. As public servants, they have the duty to help, but there is a proper way to do it. Let's not resort to shouting, rudeness, or spreading rumors just to get attention. Trust the process and let them do their job.
At the end of the day, it's not about having everything we want, but rather, being grateful for what we have.
