Defying Goliath in the West Philippine Sea
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With Soc Banzuela and Chito Generoso. M/L Chowee is behind us.
Boarding M/L Chowee
It had a sparse interior, with no rooms or chairs (some of us sat on a plank, others on the floor), let alone beds and tables. When I needed to pee, I was guided to the rear end (aka the “stern,” ahem), where a tarp-covered space had a hole on the floor through which your personal business could go straight to the sea.
M/L Chowee was supposed to be our main transport – originally intended to bring all 50 of us to the islands for the anticipated three days or more of sea travel. However, right before the mission some benefactor offered the use of a much bigger, better provisioned training ship called T/S Kapitan Felix Oca.[1] Staying at the former would have been an enormous logistical challenge – lacking the basic creature comforts we take for granted in our normal stations, but it did its job. But I’m getting ahead.
We boarded the M/L Chowee at the San Fernando port on the northeastern coast of El Nido, in Palawan, leaving before 10:00 p.m. to ferry us to the T/S Felix Oca which, on account of its size, was unable to anchor closer at low tide. The hour-long intimate trip from M/L Chowee to TS Kapitan Oca gave us enough time to converse about each other’s life stories and interests. I asked Nana Buxani and her protégé Adia Lim about their passion for photography; they inquired about my book and the Communist Party purge; Pakisama leader Soc Banzuela initiated the talk with the boat’s chief mate, Mac Hogan, about their experiences in the surrounding waters.
“Do you get harassed by the Chinese?” we asked.
“Yes, all the time,” Mac replied casually as he steered the boat.
“How, exactly? Do they get physical with you?”
“Not really. They just order us to leave. ‘Out! Out!,’ they say, gesturing with their hands and shooing us away.”
We were aware, however, that others got rougher treatment – such as being hosed with water cannons or rammed.
“What do you do?”
“We just wave at them,” Mac gestured with a smile. His gentleness was disarming.
M/L Chowee chief mate Mac Hogan, steering the boat. On his left is Jonathan Chua, head of team 1.
It was almost midnight when we reached T/S Oca. There, Captain George dela Cruz welcomed us aboard with a quick, jolly pep talk. We then headed to our respective bunks to rest in preparation for the exciting days to follow.
View of T/S Kapitan Oca from M/L Chowee
Boarding M/L Chowee
The Law Is on Our Side
This undertaking, called the Christmas Convoy to Ayungin Shoal: Civilian Supply Mission, was part of a larger campaign called Atin Ito! to stake our claim to the islands and seas that are clearly within the Philippines’ jurisdiction in what we now refer to as the West Philippine Sea. China, however, claims dominion over nearly the entire South China Sea, citing ancient, prehistoric references. “Ownership” disputes are not uncommon globally, which is precisely why there are international mechanisms based on rule of law to resolve such conflicts. Recognizing this, the Philippines brought the case to the appropriate international arbitration process and won. China refused to honor the ruling and started muscling its way into what were already decided to be Philippine territories. Such encroachment and bullying are what we are fighting against.
Atin Ito! tarp
Atin Ito! pursues a long-term campaign for our sovereign rights that brings in multiple stakeholders – government, civil society, the private sector, artists, security forces, the Church, and, most importantly, the displaced fisher folk and their communities. Earlier in October this year, commuters were greeted with gigantic billboards along EDSA with Manny Pacquiao, among others, declaring that the WPS is ours – flashing the now familiar W sign with three upright middle fingers. We may not see eye-to-eye with Pacman on some issues, but it’s great to have the iconic boxer on our side in this particular fight. Pacquiao, unarguably the most recognizable Filipino in the world, gives visibility and traction to the campaign.
Westward and Worked Up
The aim of the Christmas convoy was straightforward enough – to bring supplies, Christmas gifts, and cheers to our compatriots in the contested areas, the way we do with each other in this season of giving. The idea for this first-ever civilian mission was to kickstart the “normalization” of travel around our own waters and islands. It was ultimately intended to be an act of defiance; to show to the world our unflinching efforts to assert our rights in the face of aggression; to deliver the message that we should be able to fish in our seas and play in our own domain as we please, because it is ours. And if we fail, we shall always go back and try again.
Early Friday morning, December 9, 2023, a group of us flew to El Nido, the northern tip of Palawan. With me were Philippine Rural Reconstruction Movement Chair, Ed dela Torre, who is also the campaign’s spokesperson, former Political Affairs Secretary Ronald Llamas, and former Ambassador Vicky Bataclan. The three stayed at the El Nido command center to oversee the operation and handle the communications, which was managed by Akbayan Party’s Emman Hizon.
The author with Fr. Robert Reyes, Ambassador Vicky Bataclan, and Secretary Ronald Llamas
With Mayor Robert M. del Mundo of the Municipal Government of Kalayaan
Not bad launching a seaborne operation from El Nido, with its picturesque islands and white sand beaches. Media people also began trickling in, such as FOCAP’s Jojo Riñosa , ABC 5’s Ed Lingao and Gretchen Ho, Rappler’s Joan Manabat, ABS-CBN’s Jervis Manahan, and other reporters from CNN, GMA, TBS and other international media outfits.
Ed Lingao, Akbayan Party President Paeng David, Emman Hizon, and Gretchen Ho
The “civilian commander” of the Christmas convoy was Rafaela “Paeng” David, the sweet, young, and bubbly president of Akbayan. She led the orientation for volunteers and the media, outlining our route and travel arrangements. The plan was to travel all night and most of the following day towards the general area of Ayungin Shoal (where Chinese vessels reportedly swarm regularly) and get near enough to view the grounded ship BRP Sierra Madre, then sail past Patag Island and proceed to the vicinity of Lawak island. Then, upon reaching the area of Lawak, we would anchor near enough and take rubber boats to the island to deliver the goods. Expectedly, all the media people wanted to go all the way to Lawak for complete coverage, but the limited number of rubber boats and time consideration could not accommodate all; thus they had to draw lots later aboard TS Kapitan Oca.
Spartan-But-Fun Life Aboard TS Kapitan Felix Oca
“How was the food?” I asked colleague Zos Salazar, who opted to ride the ship on the voyage from Manila to El Nido, along with the other youth and community volunteers. “The food?” he replied with an enigmatic smile. I soon understood what that grin was all about during breakfast on Saturday, December 10: it meant 555 sardines, 555 corned beef, and Lucky Me instant cup noodles all the way. That had been the perpetual “cuisine” since the ship left Manila, and it would be the same fare for the subsequent meals throughout the trip.
“I wish we at least had saba (plantain) and camote (sweet potato),” I thought. Wish granted! Sacks of these carb-rich food were hauled onto the ship along with us passengers. Thus, we had bonus boiled bananas and sweet potatoes on top of sardines and budget corned beef the rest of the trip. The unvarying food may have been difficult to swallow after a while, but at least we had something to pick on and laugh about during meals.[2] As Calvin’s dad says about any ordeal, it builds character. The expression on the face of “running priest” Fr. Robert Reyes, triathlete Chito Generoso, and Tokyo-based blogger Roy “the Destroyer” Asiniero said it all.
Fr. Robert Reyes and Chito Generoso
Tokyo-based blogger Roy Asiniero
Prior to the trip I had thought about bringing my guitar, anticipating long hours in the open sea; but decided to travel light and be prepared for any eventuality. Good thing that Paeng’s guitar and ukulele were on hand, saving us from being idle. I played a bit on the deck soon as we boarded TS Oca, rocking along with the waves and lulling myself to sleep. The following day, December 10, I jammed again in the mess hall, with youth leaders Matthew Silverio and Lessa Sarangaya. A member of the kitchen crew named CM could not resist; he took a break from wiping the tables and eagerly joined our session, belting along with his fine voice. Gretchen Ho chanced upon us in the middle of this “harmonious mess.” We asked her to join us, and she replied, “I’ll take your video first.” She was gone a couple of minutes, then returned with her phone, recording our gallant attempts at making music. She then interviewed the young activists, and threw me a couple of questions as well. (Not sure if these made the cut.) After the interview we continued the jam, with Gretchen singing along. Selecting another song on my phone app – When You Say Nothing at All, I plucked then quickly realized, “Oops, wrong rhythm.” Gretchen then said, “Oh, I know that,” took the guitar, and played. It was all good and nice, jamming over instant coffee and camote, then it was time for the Mass.
Kitchen crew named CM, crooning
Jamming with Matthew Silverio and Lessa Sarangaya. (Photo by Gretchen Ho)
When You Say Nothing at All, Gretchen.
Homilis Interruptus
It was past 4 p.m. and we were all summoned on-deck for the Mass to be celebrated by Fr. Robert. At this point we were already somewhere around Kayumanggi Bank, 75 nautical miles northwest of Puerto Princesa and 13 nautical miles to Ayungin Shoal.[3] It was the perfect time – the sun only beginning to set, therefore not too hot, and the weather made friendlier by the cool sea breeze blowing our hair. At this time, Chinese vessels could already be spotted on the horizon.
Philippine Coast Guard nearby, and a Chinese vessel further back on the horizon.
We were facing Fr. Robert, with the Philippine symbols-inscribed cross behind him, the life-size belen (Nativity set) further back, and the open sea as undulating background. It was such a powerful image – straight from a Bernal or Brocka film.
Preparing for Mass.
Some announcements before the Mass
Mass in progress
Fr. Robert delivering his homily
The Mass proceeded with the usual opening prayer, readings, and responsorial psalm, but as Fr. Robert started his sermon, the PA system blared in full volume, with Captain George calling the civilian commander to the bridge. The interruption was highly unusual.
What was that all about? We all wondered. Then we saw the Chinese ships had come much nearer. The single Philippine Coast Guard vessel continued to provide security escort, however, there were at least three Chinese Coast Guard vessels circling us from a distance, plus a Chinese Navy destroyer further back. Some of us were alarmed, others got excited. What would happen next?
“Ships-of-interest”
Then we realized that our ship was turning back! What the heck was happening? It turned out that Capt. George dela Cruz unilaterally aborted the mission, exercising his authority even against the express manifestation of the Philippine Coast Guard for us to continue on our course.
We were all indignant. We went out of our way, with this much preparation and detail, then the decision of one man brings it all to naught! We were left there standing and watching as the Chinese vessels continued to shadow us even on our way back. That evening we all assembled at the lecture hall for the latest orientation and update from Captain George.
“I know how disappointed you all are, and I apologize. Call me a coward if you will, but I cannot risk the safety of my passengers.” The Captain explained further that the Chinese ship’s maneuvers were highly irregular, forcing him to make a tough call. Everyone was visibly agitated, but still maintained reason.
After the Captain’s explanation, Chito Generoso raised his hand and tried to appeal. “Since there have been so many changes in the plans from the start of our mission, is there any chance that you would also change your mind and bring this ship back to its original destination?”
“I am really very sorry, but the decision is final.” Many others wanted to continue the Q&A, but the organizers decided it would be wiser to cut it short, otherwise the tension could have escalated. We had no choice but to respect the Captain’s judgment. We also accepted the fact that, ultimately, he was the most competent person onboard and the most qualified to make the decision.
Captain George explaining the Chinese vessel’s maneuvers
In the evening, the ship’s civilian command team regrouped, and I was asked to join the brainstorm. More details were elaborated, based on analysis of radar readings and deliberation with the ship’s crew. We learned that while we were being surrounded by Chinese vessels, the one in front of us picked up speed and shifted its angle - directing its path into a collision course with us. That was what ultimately forced the turnaround.
In the unfavorable circumstance, what else could we do? We proposed that M/L Chowee, which was carrying our supplies, along with the volunteer fishermen’s boats, carry on with the primary objective of delivering the donated goods to Lawak Island. They had actually separated from our main contingent earlier to follow a shorter route in shallower waters. Admittedly, we did not have much confidence in this plan, given how our much bigger, sturdier ship was forced to turn back.
But, alas! It would turn out to be our “Star Wars” moment – something straight out of “Rogue One.” At the next morning’s orientation, Paeng delivered a most welcome news: M/L Chowee made it! Its small size and navigational capacities in shallower waters allowed it to steer its course unhampered and unmolested to deliver the supplies and donated goods to Lawak Island. That deserved a cheer for M/L Chowee’s unassuming chief mate. Well done, Mac Hogan! We may not have been able to bring the entire contingent to the intended site, with full media coverage, but mission accomplished nevertheless.
View of Lawak Island from the deck of M/L Chowee carrying supplies and donations (Photo by Mac Hogan)
Mac Hogan, M/L Chowee chief mate (Photo by Ning Belandres)
Over the next months, we hope to see the further “normalization” of travel around the waters west of the Philippines and beyond. They are ours after all or, as we say proudly in the vernacular, with our three fingers up, Atin Ito!
Notes:
[1] T/S Kapitan Felix Oca is a “floating school for seafarers” that can house 180 cadets. https://www.seafarerasia.net/2019/09/the-school-that-floats/
[2] More appropriate food had been planned but, given the difficulty of coordinating a humongous mission with a thousand moving parts spread out across the seas, this was one of those things that fell into the cracks.
[3] Reflections: Atin Ito Christmas Convoy To Ayungin: My Personal Chronicle, Ben Sumog-Oy. Mindanews. December 19, 2023. https://www.mindanews.com/mindaviews/2023/12/reflections-atin-ito-christmas-convoy-to-ayungin-my-personal-chronicle/
(All photos by Bobby Garcia, unless otherwise indicated.)
Robert Francis “Bobby” Garcia joined the Christmas convoy as an individual volunteer. He is the author of To Suffer Thy Comrades: How the Revolution Decimated its Own. He was Undersecretary at the Office of the Political Adviser for President Benigno S. Aquino, Jr. under whose term the Philippines filed the WPS territorial claim with the Permanent Court of Arbitration. He presently leads the Technical Assistance Team of Governance in Justice (GOJUST) II – Human Rights, supporting the Commission on Human Rights (CHR) through funds from the European Union (EU) and the Agency for International Development Cooperation (AECID) of Spain.
